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Post by broke350 on Feb 16, 2009 13:02:38 GMT -5
Well, the Tri-Z runs, but it acts like the carb isn't even there. It will only start when you put fuel into the intake boot, then it revs to the moon. Fuel is getting to the carb, bowl is full of fuel. The fitting on the top of the carb wasn't allowing the throttle to close all the way, but at most it was 1/4 throttle, so that still doesn't explain the reving to the moon. Got the throttle issue fixed, and just as a precaution new reeds are on the way. The carb has been pulled apart and none of the jets or fuel passages are clogged. Any ideas? On a positive note the 500's motor is all back together and can hopefully be put back in the trike in the near future.
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Post by chainsaw on Feb 16, 2009 14:47:01 GMT -5
Maybe a crack in your intake allowing air to be sucked in? I dunno, its been so long since I have messed with a machine I have forgotten.
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Post by smokinwrench on Feb 16, 2009 22:01:19 GMT -5
I would also guess intake leak. Only other thing I could think to do is put an auxilary tank up high so you can eliminate the fuel pump and such.
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Post by broke350 on Feb 16, 2009 23:11:31 GMT -5
I'll check the intake over again when the reeds are installed. I sprayed the entire intake down with starting fluid to check for leaks, figured if there was a leak it would suck it in and fire, but didn't so figured all was good there. Pulled the fuel line off the pump and kicked the engine over and it shot fuel out. Bowl is also full of fuel, so the pump seems to be working. Even replaced it with another pump and same deal. The carb is brand new, and nothing looks messed up, but I really don't know what to look for other than the needle's in place, both jets are there and the throttle cable operates the slide properly.
Oh, the factory "boost bottle" thing isn't attached, but the port that it connects to the intake has been capped off. Should I replace the boost bottle?
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Post by chainsaw on Feb 17, 2009 9:42:53 GMT -5
the boost bottles don't effect it in anyway, but that may be where your leak is. Just check over it good. The starter fluid trick won't work if its already running fast, because thats how you tell if you have a leak,.. the rpm will increase when sprayed with it.
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Post by broke350 on Feb 17, 2009 11:48:11 GMT -5
After it burned up all the fuel that I poured into the intake boot and wouldn't start again, I sprayed the intake down with starting fluid and it wouldn't fire, so if there is a leak, I don't think it's at the intake manifold. We've got the boost bottle, just don't have the hose, so we'll have to get a hose to make it work. This is supposedly a motor that was completely rebuilt with 0 hours on it, but still, as seems to be my luck, won't run. As much as I like these old trikes, I sure don't miss this part of owning them.
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Post by broke350 on Feb 18, 2009 23:27:38 GMT -5
Turns out the throttle was way out of adjustment and was actually about 3/4 throttle open which explains the revving high after it started. Reeds came in and have been replaced. Throttle adjusted to close and open all the way. We weren't sure if it was supposed to have a gasket on each side of the reed cage on the intake or not, so left it alone and started on the 500. Checked tonight and it only has a gasket on 1 side, so it can go back together now. 500's motor is in the bike and all bolted in. Just needs fluids and the exhaust put on, and the kill switch mounted. The kick starter even clears the frame. I'm hoping to hear both of them run by next week, but we will see. My brother's been busting his butt working on both trikes and two Bronco's the past couple months so I know he's ready for the projects to be done and hit the dunes.
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Post by chainsaw on Feb 19, 2009 9:37:29 GMT -5
Cool man. Good luck kicking that beast of a machine 500 over, I hated trying to start that thing cold. Just use a lot of starter fluid to make it easy. And remember to get it TDC before you kick each time,.. makes it easy.
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Post by broke350 on Feb 19, 2009 11:48:10 GMT -5
Yeah, I'm not looking forward to kicking it. The stock kickstarter is quite a bit longer and more sturdy than the modified kicker that was on it. If you could start it with that, then I should be able to get it started with this kicker. The plan is also to put some sort of tow point on the front so we can just pull start it.
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Post by chainsaw on Feb 20, 2009 10:18:55 GMT -5
Just be sure to pull start it on sand if you have paddles on. That sucker will rip paddles off if you try it on pavement.
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Post by broke350 on Feb 20, 2009 11:44:33 GMT -5
Yep, Just planned on dragging it out the gate with one of the Broncos, then starting it on the dunes.
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Post by smokinwrench on Feb 20, 2009 15:54:07 GMT -5
I bet it won't be that bad with correct kicker on it. Just never attempt a half hearted kick that is when they get ya.
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Post by chainsaw on Feb 20, 2009 22:39:05 GMT -5
I bet it won't be that bad with correct kicker on it. Just never attempt a half hearted kick that is when they get ya. haha.. he has no idea does he Garrett. |
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Post by broke350 on Feb 20, 2009 22:58:55 GMT -5
We'll see. I'm telling you that stock kicker has alot of material and sticks out a ways with plenty of leverage. I'm still scared of it though. If there's anything I'm not looking forward to on that trike it's kick starting it. I'm going to give it a try though. First time it fires will be pulling it behind something else. After I know it runs I'll strap on the riding boots and try kicking it. If I had plans to keep it I'd have a compression release machined into the cylinder. There's a guy in Hutch that has a Cr500 trike and has the compression release. Just a little button on the cylinder and when it fires it pops the release back closed. Says it's like kickin a 125.
The Tri-Z is alive. My dumbass had the choke on thinking it was off. The pilot's lean, needs to have the throttle cracked a hair to fire, but the main jet is pig rich. Good news is, it fires, idles, and seems to have good throttle response. Hope to get the clutch fixed and get it on the dyno to get dialed in. If it runs good I'm just gonna ride it in April and leave the Raptor for my brother when he's not driving the Bronco.
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Post by broke350 on Mar 10, 2009 15:09:14 GMT -5
1 step forward, 3 steps back. Tri-Z runs, but clutch won't engage. Pulled the clutch cover off and noticed that the oil's a bit milky. Waterpump seal leaks. So, $32.00 seal and $30.00 clutch cover gasket. Didn't really have to do anything to the clutch, just gently pried the plates apart and readjusted it at the hub for good measure and it works now. If the clutch would've worked, never would've known about the seal leak, so guess it was good that we found it. Gonna have to modify the out of frame pipe on the 500. Guess the 86 cylinder is a bit different than the one that was on it because the pipe doesn't seem to match up very well. Gonna cut the flange off the inframe and weld it onto the out of frame and all should work well. The Tri-Z will be off to the dyno in the next week or so for final tuning. Hope to get the 500 fired up and some test runs on it at a friend's house in 2 weeks. Only other thing to do is change the oil on the zinger and should be good to go.
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